🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.